Advice on draughty sash windows

Since this topic has evolved into a slightly more general discussion of windows and seems as good a place as any to ask, can anyone advise on “soundproof” windows? The recent re-introduction of fast Thameslink services (I live near the rail line) has me contemplating trying to improve soundproofing but having looked online I’m not quite clear whether you need specialist windows or whether decent double-glazing should do the job. Is there a rating system for sound-proofing and is there a stage where you are paying significantly more for only marginal gains - i.e. what is the sweet spot in terms of cost to significant (but not necessarily complete) sound-proofing?

Any thoughts, experience or recommendations appreciated.

We used Magnaglaze for our sash windows. They supply precut polycarbonate panels with magnetic stripes on the edges. You offer up the panels to the frame and the result is that you really can’t see the secondary glazing and the sound and heat insulation are excellent. They also make a version for people who want to open their sash windows.

Our builder told us that the heat loss through the cracks in floor boards greatly exceeds heat loss through draft y windows
We had insulation installed under the floor boards and it made a huge difference to temperature and comfort.

1 Like

Real soundproofing costs a packet, I believe the recommendation for glazing is a 75-100mm air gap. Which due to thermal activity then reduces the effectiveness of heat insulation.
There is laminated glass which is a sandwich where the inner section is a plastic film vibration reducing feature.

Basically its cost v benefit

Hi, thank you for details and it looks good especially his feedback on eBay.

May I ask, did you replace or repair? It would be helpful to hear from someone in the conservation area who secured permission to replace timber with UPVC.

The Historic Windows Guidance sounds rigid:

“If the original window does need to be replaced, it should be in the original style and material. It should be replaced exactly ‘like for like’”

Strangely the document also says --" Depending on age and style of the building, the glazed area of the sashes can be subdivided with glazing bars into smaller panes." Surely subdividing the the window into smaller panes would make greater visible change than good quality UPVC sash replacement?

Exactly!
Another thing is, I’ve seen some pretty amateurish-looking wooden replacement sash windows that aren’t as good as these UPVC ones.
I have a feeling that the existing guidance is old and, due to the advent of these sympathetically-designed UPVC replacements, needs to be updated .

1 Like

Hi there - we replaced our windows, as they were in pretty bad nick and we wanted to double glaze. They’re not actually sash windows though - we have quite large casement windows with Georgian bars, so it was a big (and expensive) job. Ours are timber.

Try this: https://www.gapseal.co.uk/ It worked for my sashes and you can take out in the summer and re-use in the winter. Cheap as well. But depends on how bad yours are, obviously.

Also, if you have any cracks or rotten timber in the sashes, definitely look at https://www.repair-care.co.uk/product/dry-flex-4-3/

I had bad timber decay in two of mine and thought I was looking at new sashes or at least a major repair, but was put on to this by a sash specialist I rang, but who was too busy to help. Worked perfectly and saved me hundreds.

My advice is shop around. The main company in this area, which I won’t name, is grossly over priced in my opinion. But they have a waiting list / a lot of business so I guess they are doing something right.

But as someone said above, we thought it was the windows, but in reality most of the coldness was actually coming from the floorboards. But you need to have airflow under the house to prevent damp etc. So it’s a balance.

You don’t need to have the coldness entering the room (through the floorboards) to prevent damp though.